Welcome to the Baja California, such a lovely place
It was a sunny but windy day when we left Punta Prieta. Ideal conditions for some nice sailing and we breezed through the first 25km. It was there that it all went down hill. We were rolling down a hill when suddenly a gust of wind hit the valley through the mountains and blew Jakoba of the road. Luckily all in one piece except for some scratches and bruises and a bit of shock. But the whike was not. Jakoba had hit a stone and came to halt on a concrete structure, which bended the derailleur, flattened the tire and broke the clips of our Ortlieb bags. There we were in the middle of the desert, not able to cycle, between a lot of cactuses and sand.
The only option was to haul cars, but as we quickly learned people do not stop as often in Mexico as in the US. Enter the lovely Tom and Gail! They were driving down to La Paz and offered to take our luggage and sails to Guerrero Negro 50kms ahead. The tire was fixed and the derailleur bypassed so Jakoba could at least cycle in one gear. We tried to get there cycling as the whikes would not fit their camper. That turned out an illusion though, as the chain was also damaged. So we were stuck in the next town, Rosarito, looking for a ride. Luckily two chilled out surf dudes were hanging out and agreed to take our whikes in the back of their sleeping van, right on the mattress. Their karma was instant, as with the reshuffling to fit our bicycles, one of them found his toothbrush back after five days between the cracks of the bus and happily stuck it in his mouth. On to Guerrero Negro!
Blown off the road 
Thanks dudes!
In our minds we thought we would be stuck there for at least a week to get a new derailleur. But we underestimated Mexico again. Now pay attention: we called Lizette, who we met on the road in Ensenada, who had a friend Koky in Guerrero, who we called with the help of a family in the restaurant translating. Koky called around to his cycling friends and located probably the only fitting derailleur in the area in Vizcaino, 70 kilometres away. The next day Koky could drive us there, pick it up in a store and have it mounted in another bike shop. We even had time to go whale watching in the morning!
Fixed within 24hr! 
Back on the road! 
Getting it fixed!
Guerrero Negro, although not an impressive town, turned out to have some impressive records. It has the largest industrial salt producing area, a Japanese – Mexican joint venture; a bird sanctuary for migratory birds like the osprey; and the largest gathering of calving grey whales in the world! Amazing and humbling to get to see these majestic animals up close!
Casa del Ciclista 
Sea lions relaxing 
Happy spotting! 
Amazing whale watching!
The next day we were happy to get on the bike again. We had a short ride to get to the infamous Casa del Ciclista. It is a place to camp with amenities next to a house. Unfortunately the family was not around, but fun to stay there and paint our name on the Wall of Fame! The next day seemed quite easy and we even were accompanied for a bit by real ‘vacqueros’ (cowboys). In the afternoon we decided to make some drone shots, which turned out to be a bad idea! While we were filming ourselves cycling, the drone lost GPS signal and landed in a ravine! The only clues we had were the last captured images and the distance and direction from the home point. Like a needle in a hay stack! When it would turn dark we would have to abandon mission and lose the drone. Luckily we retrieved it after an hour and a half of searching. It seemed like there was some serious climbing but we could make Santa Rosalia before dark. However a puncture messed up that plan and we were rumbling down a terrible road into town in the dark in Santa Rosalia. As it was raining, we decided to take it easy the next day and explored the little mining town, which oddly enough has an iron church designed by Gustave Eiffel.
Here we noticed that Matthijs’ axis had a little wiggle, and we decided to have it checked. With our best Spanish we explained the problem and interestingly enough moments later the mechanic was banging on it with a hammer. Luckily his friend had learned some skills from race cars in the Baja 1000 and took Matthijs to his workshop and fixed the issue (for now). Being in Mexico there is always this trust issue and it did not feel good at first to be separated. And that did not get better when a man joined in the workshop holding a iron pipe. But in the end the guy fixed it and did not even want money. Shame on us. Back on the road we got to Mulege, a village with a good vibe, a beautiful mission and a nice little hotel with a patio filled with flowers: Las Casitas. A good place to celebrate six months of marriage!
The next day we would return to the coast and visit Carla and Jonathan, who we met on the road and invited us to their house. We were in for a real treat! They live in Posada Concepcion, a small beach front community with about 35 houses, which started out with people building shacks around their camper vans. It lies in a beautiful bay on the Sea of Cortes. From the sandy beach with the calm waters you can peddle or kayak towards small islands and coves. There is even a natural hot spring with perfect warm temperatures on the waterfront. When we find the yellow house we feel immediately welcome by the relaxed atmosphere of Carla and Jonathan. Soon we are having sunset beers outside and eat fresh seafood tacos and agavero (tequila liqueur). During the two days we spent there we keep exchanging interesting stories and get a glimpse of their remarkable lives, which are too much for this blog, but could fill a good book. From cycling in West-Africa, to solo motor cycle adventures through China, to Kuwaiti royalty, Mexican cartels and Saudi Arabian diving.
Sunrise 
Posada Concepcion 
Sunset 
On the waterfront 
SUP! 
Buying alebrijes
The day rhythm slows us down from our daily dose of cycling. Mornings with sunrise, stand up peddle boarding (with dolphins!), fresh food being sold at the door, relaxing, sunset and doing some cooking. The year we spent in India proved for a good curry night.
We hate to leave this place but we have to continue on in the direction of La Paz. We immediately put in a big day of 114kms, as we did not remember the exact distance to Loreto. We meet Arturo and Augusto, two hilarious Mexicans and the first bike packers we have seen with a bottle of Jack D. in their panniers. We make plans to have dinner the next day and we continue on to the amazing beach of El Requeson (the cottage cheese) to find out we are in a hurry to get to Loreto before dark. Here we give fixing Matthijs’ bike another try, bringing it to Mani’s bike shop. It is also a good opportunity to do some snorkelling with Blue Nation Baja. Good times exploring what the Baja has to offer on sea life, and great to see another big pod of dolphins! Our Mexican friends also made it down to Loreto and we have a fun dinner where we learn all about Mexican culture, like the motel business that runs per hour and much more.
Spread your wings 
Under water world 
Say cheese! 
Feeling happy at El Requeson
We will remember the Baja as an amazing place, but also one that is tough on our whikes! After a good day with a big climb to get to Ciudad Insurgentes, the welding seam of Matthijs’ pedals rips the next day and there is no way to keep going. Again stuck in the desert. We have no idea if this is fixable. But again we underestimate the Mexicans. A family squeezed us in in their pick up truck and put the whikes in the back. When we show the problem, he brings us to a welder in a tiny town 10 kilometres ahead. Within no time the guy gets his welding machine and helmet out and starts welding. We are worried when he attacks with a grinding machine as well, but he manages to fix it. And because it gets dark we can camp in the yard! At this point our Spanish is only sufficient to learn a little more about his family, as he proudly shows pictures of his lawyer daughter and policeman son.
Marco the welder 
The broken part 
Fixing the whike!
However the next day we wake up to three flat tires from the cactus needles, and more to follow that day! We can only finish about 40 kilometres with all the punctures and adversities and sleep in a trucker hotel. The next day we finally make the last stretch to La Paz and the city is in sight for a long descent into town. Made it! We look for the house of Tom and Gail and find out we have the possibility to sleep in their sail boat in the marina. What a great opportunity and we decide to take the ferry to Mazatlan a couple of days later to wind down and let the experience of Baja sink in. Days full of tacos and margaritas follow with Tom and Gail, who are retired and spent their winters in La Paz. We were surprised to learn how old they are (80+!) considering how active they still are. We also swim with the majestic whale sharks, an experience to never forget. They are hanging out close to the marina and as they are not moving as fast as whales, you are able to swim next to these 7 meter giants. Great fun!
La Paz views 
Whale shark tour 
Swimming with whale sharks! 
La Paz 
Great coffee! 
Our hotel for 4 nights
After a couple of relaxing days Tom brings us to the ferry and even drives up and down again because we forgot the seats of our Whike. But then it is really time to say goodbye and see what the mainland of Mexico has to offer!